Oh, if only I’d taken my own advice.

Twenty years ago, I wrote about a vertical tasting of delicious pinot noirs from Eastern Peake, a chilly vineyard on the high volcanic plateau of Coghills Creek, near Ballarat in western Victoria. In that article, I urged readers to buy the 2000 and 2001 vintages – then just $26 a bottle – and talked about how well the pinot from this vineyard could age in the bottle.